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How to Survive Bad Road Surfaces

Last post 10-15-2007 8:27 AM by peter.ray@valero.com. 0 replies.
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  • 10-15-2007 8:27 AM

    How to Survive Bad Road Surfaces

    Team Member David Shorr sent this to me.  He found it on roadbikerider.com.

    Seams and cracks.  When these run parallel to your direction of travel they can catch your front wheel. So be vigilant, particularly when entering a shaded section that makes cracks and seams hard to see.  If your wheels become trapped, don't try to turn to the right or left. That's likely to make you crash. Stop pedaling and either continue in the rut until it ends, or jump the bike up and to the side to untrap the wheels -- a skill worth practicing because you don't want to be trying it for the first time in emergency conditions.

    Rough or broken pavement.  When approaching long sections with a gnarly surface, sit back, shift to the next higher gear, grip the bar top or brake lever hoods, and steadily pedal through. The slightly bigger gear adds resistance and slows your cadence so you can pedal smoother with less bike chatter.

    Painted lines.  They can be as slippery as ice when they're wet. Be wary entering any corner in urban areas where there may be painted crosswalks or other road markings. Slow down and do your best to cross them at a right angle with your bike perpendicular.

    Wet metal.  Anything metal and wet is ultra slippery. This includes manhole covers, plates, grates, metal bridge surfaces, railroad tracks and so on. Again, slow down and do your best to cross wet metal at a right angle with your bike perpendicular.

    Fallen leaves.  Leaves usually aren't a problem when you're riding straight through them (although they may cover potholes or other dangers). But in a corner, watch out. If there is wetness between the leaves, they can be slippery and cause you to slide down. In the off season when there are freezing temperatures overnight, what appear to be dry leaves can actually have frost between them or even an ice slick underneath.

    Gravel and sand.  When the loose stuff is on a flat section, use the same technique described for rough or broken pavement. When sand or gravel is in a turn, initiate your turn before reaching it. Then straighten the bike just before you cross. If your bike is upright on a slippery patch, it's less likely to slide out from under you. Once safely across, lean the bike again to complete the turn.

    Tip!  Never hit the brakes while the bike is leaned over on any slippery surface. A braked wheel tends to go straight, so if you clamp on the stoppers while you're cornering, you'll almost certainly go down.

    - Davis Shorr

    Peter "El Hefe" Ray
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